“Today, we will travel to Shigatse,” our guide explained as we jumped into the van, ready to begin our Tibetan adventure outside of Lhasa. “We will cross three 5,000 meters passes and hopefully arrive in Shigatse in the early evening.”
After driving out of Lhasa, I sensed that we were truly in the middle of nowhere. We drove kilometer after kilometer only surrounded by tall, rugged mountains. Once in awhile, a small cluster of houses would spring from the earth, and we would pass villagers laboring behind horses or yaks tilling the rocky soil. Just as quickly as the village appeared, it would vanish leaving us alone, surrounded by the mountains.
Only one aspect hinted that we were not actually on some far corner of the earth, the road. Our van glided effortlessly over a beautiful, new road. Compared to rural highways in the U.S.—or even the city streets in my hometown!—this highway was amazing!
The smooth ride lulled me to sleep, but suddenly, we screeched to a halt interrupting my dreams. “What’s going on!? Is the road closed?” I asked as I looked out the window to see our guide angrily arguing with two Chinese men blocking the road.
It turns out that on this particular day a “toll” was required to use the road. Hmm…? Although our guide travels this road at least once a week, this toll was new to her. She angrily handed the men a wad of cash, got back in the van, and we continued the drive.
This beautifully paved road was compliments of the Chinese government’s massive investment into the region, but the toll represents one of the greatest problems with Chinese rule: Laws change quickly, without warning. Every aspect of Chinese aid in Tibet can be coupled with some form of discontentment.
The numerous problems caused by Chinese rule all too often overshadow the good China has done for Tibet. In hopes of modernizing Tibet, China has spent enormous sums of money on infrastructure. The investments have resulted in double-digit GDP growth for the last nine years, vastly improving the well being of the Tibetans.
Since 2001 alone, the Chinese government has invested over 45.4 billion dollars in the Tibetan Autonomous Region. Where does this money go? An obvious answer is that it goes towards building new roads. Many of the roads we traveled had recently been completed to make remote areas more accessible. There was even a road to the Mt. Everest Base Camp! Although the road was gravel, compared to the twenty-day trek to the Mt. Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side, it was luxurious.
In addition, China has constructed railways from major Chinese cities to Lhasa. In just over 48 hours, one can travel from Beijing or Shanghai to Lhasa. Such trains have significantly lowered the price of industrial goods making common appliances, ranging from refrigerators to computers, affordable to Tibetans and have increased the number of tourists to Tibet.
China has also constructed schools. Before Chinese occupation, no public schools existed, but now there are over 4,000. Even nomadic children have the opportunity for education since the government subsidizes on-campus, residential living.
Finally, the general standard of living, even in rural areas, has increased dramatically. Net per capita income has soared, growing by more than 13% each year for the last few years; electricity reaches even rural areas; cell phone service is fabulous; and, healthcare is more accessible.
China is raising the standard of living for those severely impoverished by any measure, and in almost any other circumstance, such improvements in an impoverished area would be praised. However, with the enormous capital investment comes increased regulation, and the results are predictable: Tibetans, like every other civilization, rebel against outside control. Thus, every improvement and ensuing restriction are contentious.
The largest disagreement from recent Chinese infrastructure development, for example, lies in the construction of the railways. With easy access to Tibet, many Chinese have migrated to Tibet hoping to start a better life. Large numbers of these Han Chinese have settled in Lhasa, and now, Lhasa has more resident Han Chinese than ethnic Tibetans.
The influx of Han Chinese threatens the Tibetan culture and heritage, so many Tibetans oppose the immigration. Some Han Chinese, however, are accepted by the local Tibetans as they have lived in Tibet for over twenty years, understand the history, and even support the Tibetans rather than the government. Problems arise when new immigrants, such as our driver, don’t bother to learn the history and customs of the region, disrespect the locals, and even create an atmosphere of bitter ethnic hostility, if not hatred.
The new public schools also cause contention. Students focus on the Chinese, not the Tibetan, language. Religion is forbidden, and students are taught atheism. In place of religion, students are taught to support the motherland. Moreover, they learn history through a Chinese lens. China, like every other controlling government, is using education to further its ends.
Given the pros and cons, should we support “Free Tibet?”
Asking whether Tibet should be freed is the wrong question. China controls Tibet and actively resists any organization or activity that even appears to challenge its sovereignty and authority. Moreover, similar human right violations occur throughout the country. Unless some horrific event turns the world upside down, China will not give Tibet independence.
But, shouldn’t freedom of religion be a basic human right? Shouldn’t Tibetans have a greater say in daily affairs? Shouldn’t Tibetans be able to preserve their culture and customs and not one day in the near future seamlessly blend in with the Han Chinese?
Change is greatly needed, but instead of angering China with “Free Tibet” appeals, we should focus on a reachable goal.
A comprise between the Dalai Lama and China would be a great first step. If the Dalai Lama was allowed back into his home and religion wasn’t as regulated, already Tibet would be in a much better position than today. Finally, if Tibet was given some autonomy, many of the apparent injustices would subside.
What will Tibet look like in the future? It’s impossible to even guess, but one thing is certain: It will depend how China evolves in the coming decades. In 1949, Mao Zedong united a land as large and diverse as Europe and created modern-day China. With fifty-six different minority groups, hundreds of different languages, and countless customs woven into one China, needless to say, Tibetans aren’t the only ones feeling the effects of Han Chinese rule. In addition, the government is plagued with corruption and injustices that repeatedly affect even the Han population—political prisoners, censored Internet, government hacking of emails, tainted milk, poisonous cat food, pirated everything, and controlled religion, just to name a few.
Today, these are not the most important concerns of the Chinese people. As a result of massive government spending on infrastructure—roads, ports, power, communication, transportation, sanitation—they are enjoying ever-increasing prosperity unknown to their fathers—today’s cell phone owning, car driving, Starbucks drinking forty-year-olds enjoy comforts completely unknown to their parents who endured years of hunger and disease and traveled luxuriously by bicycle. No other civilization has risen out of the dust and ashes as rapidly, ever. Understandably, today the people value stability and security more than rights and freedoms.
But, will this last? When the next generation grows accustomed to this way of life, will their values change? Will they continue to tolerate the control and corruption? Will they tolerate the disregard for human life? Or, will they demand increasing rights and freedoms?
Comments